The Zenit-11, the Final and therefor being the last of the E-types. First remove the lens. Most info on removing the lightmeter/rewind assembly is in my E repairguide. Allthough it looks more modern it is almost the same. Open the back of the camera and push up the film rewind. The Top twists off as seen in the second photo. You can now the inner tube like on the E-type. Seen here is the inner aluminum ring.
In the case of the 12XP, 122 and TTL, watch out for 1 or 2 ballbearings under the ISO/rewindknob. Finding a replacement is hard.
Beneath the rings this ring watch how you put it back it is part of the control for the round needle of the lightmeter beneath this ring are two smaller rings.
The two silver screws hold down the topplate. The black screws hold down the meter assembly. You have now removed these parts of the lightmeter control assembly.
The speedknob is easy, two to three miniscrews hold it in place. Set it to B and loosen the screw. Then remove the knob, leave the screws in the knob so you can't loose them.
Watch out for a small ballbearing, it should be locked with a minispring and usually stays put, but in some cases it might fly across the room never to be seen again. The Oldest of the EM's and TTL's have the E-Type styled shutterdail with the flashsynch beneath it.
The plate in the middel of the filmadvance assembly has to be removed. This is done clockwise. This is done with the special tool, which is very difficult to get, I do not have one so don't ask me where to get one. I used a screwdriver and slipped, you can clearly see the scratch.
Film advance plate removed. Beneath it is the filmcounterplate, take it out and a small pressurering, take it out aswell. From here on disassambly is just as on the E-type. The film advance lever is held in place by three screws. If you remove them you will hear the spring unwinding. Once the film advance lever is removed you will see another silver screw. Now remove all silver screws and carefully lift the topplate.
Parts of the lightmeter control assembly and speeddail. Once you have removed the topplate it should look like this. Except for some small changes it is just another E-clone.
The lightmeter adjust on the inside of the topplate. A simple potentiometer or if you will adjustable resistor. Remove the small screw on the front of the topplate and you can adjust your meter from the outside, so you will not have to take it apart. A special feature from KMZ to help the engineers.
Removal of the spring assembly. Counterclockwise. With this big screw removed the spring assembly can be removed for servicing. There is a smaller spring on the frontside of the camera IN the spring assembly. In some cases this is loose causing the camera to work when held horizontaly but fail when held normal. Or just to fail the filmadvance entirely. Put the little spring back in its groove and the camera works again. Though badly seen in this shot it is the little bulge on the right of the lower wheel of the spring assembly.
Shots of the shutter mechanism, rewindmechanism, steering for the auto aperture close and flash sync. In some cases the aperture does not close fully on pressing the shutter button. If this is the case plase a small piece of rubber on the aperture lever inside the mount. In rare cases the lever is bent inside the camera. When open check this to be sure.
The 12 and TTL have an extra contact on the shutter assembly. This contact must be checked for corrosion because it activates the TTL meter system. It just turns the meter on because it is just a simple on/off switch. Press shutter, contacts close, meter goes on. Release shutter contacts open meter goes off. It really is that simple. This contact is made through a lever. If the contacts are corroded then the meter will fail. You can clean them carefully with a knife or you can solder them with a nice new layer of tin.
Another thing to check on the TTL models is the state of the soldering and the state of the wires. If the wires are in a bad corroded state then remove them and replace them. Check the soldering of the joints, use a multimeter to check the conductivity of the wires. The TTL model are more work but they are worth it.
For reassembly just follow this page in a reversed order.